a birthday celebration at Hinoki & The Bird

We’d been hearing the buzz about Hinoki & The Bird in magazines, on TV, and just in general lately. We found an excuse to make the drive up to celebrate a friend’s birthday and to check out what the hype was all about.

The brainchild of David Myers, the man behind Comme Ca, in LA and Pizzeria Ortica in Costa Mesa, the restaurant is nestled in an office building, hidden from view. Once you drop your car off at valet, the indescript door opens to reveal a landing where you are introduced to the bustling dining room below as well as a pseudo open kitchen where you can view the chefs in action.

I was very pleased that we were seated on the patio. It reminded me of Gjelina’s patio which is always more pleasant than sitting in the dining room itself. After we settled at our table, it was time to order some cocktails.

The cocktail menu offers selections for all, and if you don’t see anything you like, their mixologist will be happy to create one for you according to your preferences. We ordered a total of 12 cocktails between us: Jungle Bird Quaffers ($14), Tommy’s #2 Quaffers ($14), Griffith Park Swizzles ($14), Seasonal Fix Swizzles ($14), Elijah Craig Manhattan ($15).

The menu is eclectic and there were many items we had our eyes on. Chili Crab Toast ($16) was very familiar to me reminiscent of the Singapore chili crab I grew up with, but this had only a hint of heat to it. Spicy cucumber and coriander provided an element of freshness to each bite.

Pumpkin Toast ($12) was on the other spectrum from the crab toast. The slightly sweet pumpkin combined with the salty sweet miso jam and creamy goat cheese appealed even to my non-sweet palate, although I didn’t care much for the goat cheese. I was glad there were only two little dots on top and not more.

I’m a big fan of Beef Tartare ($15) and this was incredible. The pickled jalapeno lent a spicy tartness to the perfectly seasoned beef. The quail egg yolk intensified the creamy aspect of the already rich flavors. A sprinkling of parmagiano cheese completed the dish with more saltiness. This was one of our favorites of the night.

The Lobster Roll (MP/on our night $19) was better on paper than in actuality. I didn’t like the denseness of the squid ink roll which took away from the subtle nuances of the crustacean. On its own, the lobster was perfectly luscious, delicately sweet even after being seasoned with green curry and Thai basil. I chose to omit the bread which overpowered the lobster and masked its flavors. 

One of the specials of the night was a chilled egg custard topped with uni and baby corn ($14) and was my ultimate favorite. I could have eaten two bowls of this and called it a night. One of my friends and I were scraping the bottom of the bowl, making sure not to leave even a speck of this umami-filled treasure behind. This was a definite winner in my book!

Hinoki, a Japanese cypress tree shows itself in the signature dish, Hinoki Scented Black Cod ($26). A piece of the tree’s bark is lit and laid over a piece of seared black cod, allowing it to gently “smoke” and coat the fish as it arrives at the table. Beautifully flavored but overcooked, our server sent a new dish out to us and the second time, it was perfect! It is tender, melt-in-the-mouth and is exactly why black cod is also known as ‘butterfish’.

Sambal Skate Wing ($23) reminded me of a dish I grew up eating in southeast Asia. Instead of skate, stingray was used, a fish similar in look and texture to the skate. Served on a piece of banana leaf (they wrap the stingray in banana leaf in Asia) the fish is smothered in a spicy sambal paste and possessed hints of the fragrance of the banana leaf. The nuoc mam (fish sauce) dipping sauce was so enticing we couldn’t stop eating it, even using it with other items still left on the table.

The birthday boy ordered Drunken Duck Breast ($26) which was good but not fantastic. I would’ve liked more seasoning — the exterior of the meat was nicely flavored but didn’t extend all the way to the inside.

We also ordered some sides which were absolutely delicious! Shiitake ($11) mushrooms were allowed to shine on their own without much fussy fiddling. They were plump, meaty and so good even on their own.

Roasted Yam ($9) were little yams slit down the middle and filled with crispy lardon and creme fraiche. The lardon added saltiness to the natural sweetness of the yams and I’m glad my BFF ordered this because they were so good and so simple!! 

Hinoki & The Bird is a fun place with a very cool menu. Everything was really good with a few stand-outs and the staff were awesome. Our server Raewyn was knowledgeable, friendly, and made sure we walked away absolutely happy with our experience. I highly recommend a vist!

Hinoki & The Bird
10 Century Drive
Los Angeles, CA 90067
Tel: 310-552-1200

outstanding seafood at Fishing With Dynamite

I want to preface this by saying, I’m a HUGE fan of David LeFevre’s. Like, HUGE! His MB Post is one of my favorites and ever since he opened Fishing With Dynamite a few doors down, I’ve been wanting to visit.

So we finally make it up to Manhattan Beach and the beach volleyball tournament is going on and it is absolutely insane there. Luckily, after a few circles around the block, we find parking just two blocks away. Score!

Before perusing the seafood-centric menu, cocktails were ordered — yes it was early, but hey, it was the weekend. Original Gangster ($12) is essentially a Boulevardier made with White Dog bourbon whiskey, aperol, Vya sweet vermouth and grapefruit, while Regalo de Dios ($12) is a sour with hacienda de chihuahua, strawberry, rhubarb and serrano.

FWD is known for its fresh seafood and no one should walk away without trying at least a few items. You can opt for platters that have already been created or, make your own plate. Oysters can be order individually, by the half dozen, or a dozen (prices will be reflected as such).

We selected three types of oysters: Tomahawk ($3.50/$20.50/$38.50), Malagash ($3.50/$20.50/$38.50) and Sweet Petite ($3/$17.50/$33), as well as Littleneck Clams ($2.25/$13/$22) and Peruvian Scallops ($2.50/$14/$26). There are several sauces to choose from and we decided upon Mignonette and Ponzu.

I couldn’t resist the Live Santa Barbara Sea Urchin and what a bargain at a mere $15. Plump, meaty, positively the largest pieces of uni I’ve ever seen are presented with the shell as decor — spines are still moving by the way — and I slurp them will glee allowing the umami-filled flavors of the sea coat my mouth. This is what dying and going to heaven probably tastes like.

After the raw foods, we moved on to the rest. New England Clam Chowdah ($9) was perfect in consistency for me — not too thick — and filled with bits of clam and other delights such as Neuske’s apple smoked bacon, Weiser Farm potatoes, carrots, celery and chives, served with house made oyster crackers. The saltiness of the bacon plays well with the sweetness of the carrots and every spoonful had bits of clams in it.

We couldn’t resist Chef David’s Mom’s Cape Cod Squash Rolls ($5), hot, soft rolls dotted with squash. We slathered the buns with rosemary butter which melted upon contact enveloping the rolls, making them oh so addicting. A carb lover’s dream come true. These are not to be missed.

I’m generally iffy when it comes to crab cakes purely because most places uses WAY too many fillers. Maryland Blue Crab Cake ($16) blew my mind because believe it or not, there were NO fillers in this at all. Only a little bread crumbs are used on the very top for a textural crunch, but otherwise, it’s mouthful after mouthful of plump, sweet, crab. I didn’t even need the in-house dill pickles or whole grain mustard remoulade, but they were both delectable on their own.

I will always order octopus if it’s on the menu and this Grilled Octopus ($19) did not disappoint. Tender pieces of octopus braised in a red wine and mirepoix stock are then grilled for an optimum char factor. The cranberry beans, date-tomato ragu, preserved lemon and kalamata olive tapenade made for a sweet, tart explosion.

I’m a sucker for sashimi so Hamachi ($16) with ponzu, avocado, red radish, serrano and shiso was right up my alley. Beautifully fresh sushi-grade hamachi is bathed in a tart, spicy and fragrant marinade enhancing the wonderfully sweet fish.

Santa Barbara Spot Prawns arrived too late for inclusion on the menu, but Chef sent some out to us and I was so grateful he did because they were so succulent and absolutely sublime in their natural state. I was sucking out the lusciousness in the heads, much to the chagrin of those watching, *shrug* hey, I wasn’t going to waste any of it!

Our last savory dish of Thai Shellfish & Coconut Soup ($11) was my least favorite. Although the broth was filled with plump shrimp, mussel, rice noodles, kaffir lime leaf and coriander, it lacked depth and acid. I added some lime juice to my leftovers the next day and it was exactly what I was looking for to bring a touch of zing to the coconut broth.

If you’re a dessert fan, try one, or all of them on the menu. Maple Pudding with Rosemary Sandies ($6) with Buffalo Trace bourbon and candied pecans, a little sweet for me though.

I loved the Key Lime Pie ($7) with a gorgeous graham cracker crust and kaffir lime meringue, although the kaffir lime was very subtle.

If you’re looking for a hot dessert, the Pretzel and Chocolate Bread Pudding ($8) is the way to go. Salted caramel sauce is drizzled over and topped with a house made ice cream. The hot pudding with the cold ice cream is a perfect combination in my mouth. Too bad I was too full to eat more than a bite.

Just like MB Post, Fishing with Dynamite is one of those restaurants you’ll want to return to over and over again. Chef David Lefevre knows how to bring the freshest and best quality of everything to your plate and it definitely shows.

Fishing with Dynamite
1148 Manhattan Ave
Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
Tel: 310-893-6299

discovering the new Landmark Corona del Mar

I’d never been to the old Landmark Steakhouse so when I received an invitation to try the menu at the newly re-launched Landmark, I was intrigued. The restaurant is modern, but comfortable with chic dining rooms and a more casual, and colorful patio area for dining al fresco.

They weren’t kidding when they said we’d be dining at the Chef’s Table. We were shuttled into the kitchen at a table where we were able to watch everything Chef Travis Flood and his team were preparing for us that evening.

A graduate of California Culinary Academy, Chef Travis’ experience includes working with Laurent Gris at his San Francisco restaurant Fifth Floor and is also a huge advocate of the local/sustainable movement.

** please note, photos depict a tasting size portion while prices listed are off the menu **

We started with a bread basket of pretzel roll and a whole wheat bread served with whipped honey butter, all of which are made in-house. I particularly enjoyed the whole wheat bread with a smear of the honey butter.

Our first dish was a selection of bite sized items from the menu to start.

A Hawaiian staple, Poke ($16) here consists of ahi tuna, cucumber, avocado, pickled ginger, wakame, ponzu and served with taro chips. We were treated to a bite of this delicious raw fish on a taro chip, the perfect accompaniment to poke.

Roasted Beets ($13) are a must on any current menu with these beautiful root vegetables still in season and sweet as sugar. Speck, tangerine, scallion ash yogurt, arugula and almonds complete this wonderfully refreshing salad.

If you’re in the mood for a burger, then look no further thanThe Landmark ($16) a 6oz dry aged, ground in-house burger on a house-made pretzel bun with charred onion jam, truffle aioli and Hooks four-year white cheddar from Wisconsin. The burger is juicy, flavorful and the onion jam added a touch of smokiness resulting in a really tasty burger.

Next came PCHA (Pacific Coast Hawaiian Atlantic $50/$90) — seafood including Prince Edward Island mussels, clams, lobster tail, Dungeness crab and California caviar. I’m not sure this would be the exact plate you get, but what we got was absolutely stunning and the seafood was allowed to shine on their own without a lot of fussy dressings. Just a touch of extra virgin olive oil, seaweed salad and white sesame seeds complete its composition.

Shaved Garden Vegetables ($13) was so simple, but was full of flavor and color. Vibrant carrots, various beets, zucchini, cucumbers, were all sliced paper thin and tossed together with broccoli rabe florets in a toasted caraway vinaigrette. It was genius and I knew right away I would steal this concoction to serve at home.

When I saw Sweet Pepper and Onion Soup ($13) I was so excited because I love onion soup, but it wasn’t exactly what I thought it would be. Instead, onions rings, basil and paprika are presented in a bowl and a sweet pepper soup poured tableside ensuring the onion rings remained crispy on the outside and the onions possessing a crunch on the inside.

Pacific Yellowtail (normally Lingcod on the menu $29) was prepared exactly the same way as the lingcod with roasted tomato, fennel, artichoke puree, grilled bread and a sauce which embodied the taste of bouillabaisse, filled with umami and the aromas and flavors of the ocean.

A small portion of the French fries and house-made ketchup was also brought out for us to try. These fries resembled yuca fries and were thicker than normal fries or chips. The exterior is very crispy with a moist interior. As for the ketchup — and I really dislike ketchup — I loved it! It wasn’t sweet and had a little kick to it. I wouldn’t mind a jar of this thank you very much!!

When the next dish arrived, I was thankful we weren’t presented with an entire steak, but rather, just a small portion of the Paso Prime Grass Fed Dry Aged Beef: Rib Eye (regularly 10oz for $55). Served with a brown butter potato puree, tater tots, and vegetables with a horseradish beef jus, I couldn’t get enough of the meaty, rich jus. I noticed there wasn’t a tater tot and chef said it was because I was complaining about how full I was.

Of course, chef then quickly whisked out a tater tot for us to try. It was so crispy on the outside and melty soft on the inside. Yeah, this was well worth risking a severe stomach ache for.

But then, we started chatting about these lobster croquettes we had heard about and what happens? A lobster croquette miraculously appears in front of us. Oh dear lord! I could only manage a bite of this creamy, gooey, cheesy deliciousness with bits of lobster dotted inside. ($12/5pcs)

Of course, there was still dessert to come, but since I’m not a huge fan of desserts, I took a bite or two and pushed the plate back. I liked the Chocolate ($9) a slice of black magic cake served a rich, decadent dark chocolate coffee ice cream with smoked white chocolate caramel and roasted peanut praline crumbs. Being the ice cream fiend that I am, I polished it all off.

Lemon ($9) was a pistachio crepe mille, layers of crepe formed to resemble a cake with a mouth watering tart Meyer lemon custard served with a scoop of burnt honey ice cream. Take a guess what I devoured off the plate — yep, the ice cream, but also, the custard was quite addicting.

If you’re looking for a place for dinner this weekend, definitely check out Landmark. The restaurant is also nice enough to celebrate special occasions such as birthdays and anniversaries.

This week, Landmark has a $25 giftcard for one of my readers to win. Just leave me a comment with your FULL name for a chance. You have until Sunday to get your comments in.

Landmark
3520 E Coast Hwy
Corona del Mar, CA 92625
Tel: 949-675-5556

The Ranch doesn’t kid around when they say farm-to-table

In my 20+ years as a food writer/critic, I’ve been invited to a myriad of events, meals, experiences on different continents even. Some I wish to forget, but others, will remain etched on my memory for years to come. This is one of them. But I must warn you, this review is long, but deemed necessary, in order for me to recant the truly remarkable afternoon I spent in the company of other food writers and food lovers alike.

Over the weekend, I was invited to a luncheon at the Edwards Ranch Estates, the farm which supplies produce to The Ranch Restaurant & Saloon in Anaheim (and is owned by Andrew Edwards, owner of the restaurant). I had visited when they first opened and if you are interested in reading my post from that visit, you can find it here.

It was a hot and balmy day and I balked at the thought of having to be outside for three hours lingering in the hot weather I loathe. Tents were set up but my easily over-heated body was already breaking out in perspiration as I sipped on my iced tea trying to catch the cool mist spraying down on us.

I grabbed a Tempura Zucchini Flower stuffed with Sierra Nevada Goat cheese, garden herbs and meyer lemon off a passing tray. It was deliciously hot and richly gooey, just one of the 17 items we were to taste over the course of the afternoon.

Next came the refreshing Baja Stone Crab Gazpacho with sweet crab meat, gala apple for crunch, both swimming in a soup of champagne mango and Valencia orange juice, dressed with Easter egg radishes. It was a tropical delight in my mouth!

After the mouth teasers, we took a tour of the Farm, home to about 400 heirloom tomato vines, ranging from Brown Sugar, Persimmon, Brandywine to name just a few.

If you wonder why everything you eat at The Ranch tastes so damn good, it is because everything grown on the Farm is picked the morning of the day you’re enjoying that evening. Cucumbers, chilis, citrus, fresh herbs, the gorgeous variety of squashes, tomatoes etc is truly a farm-to-table experience.

When we return to the table, our feast begins with a Trio of Spreads — eggplant hummus, a tart creamy concoction eaten on grilled naan bread. In fact, we dipped everything on the naan — fennel tzatziki and black Mission fig & olive jam, the latter being my absolute favorite. The figs are grown on the Farm and the salty sweet mixture of olive and figs is absolute genius.

Grilled Peaches so sweet and aromatic is served with La Quercia Prosciutto, Di Stefano Burrata, Wild arugula and lemon verbena honey. Seriously, no words are necessary to describe this super simple dish with a highly complex marriage of flavors.

This next dish is the epitome of summer. Not only is the presentation outstanding, but the flavors are sublime. Chilled Cucumber Soup is light and refreshing while the hot smoked Skuna Bay salmon lends a salty, decadent contrast to the subtle coolness of the cucumber.

Heirloom Tomatoes pretty much sum up the Farm on a plate. These beautiful tomatoes required nothing but a sprinkling of sea salt and a drizzling of Napa Valley olive oil to enhance the natural flavors. The fruits speak for themselves, each embodying a unique taste with its own personal texture — a symphony of color and the true essence of summer.

Making use of seasonal fruits, Watermelon & Heirloom Tomato Salad is not only vibrant in color but vivacious in personality. Lemon basil, mint, feta, radishes and red onions are tossed together with the sweet watermelon cubes and luscious tomato chunks, and definitely what I want to eat outdoors, so our environment was the perfect setting for this dish.

Up till now, I had taken only one bite of everything put in front of me. However, it was really hard to resist just one taste of the Country Fried Petaluma Quail. The fowl was crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside with the distinctive taste I so love. Home-made agave mustard was an ideal accompaniment as well as the apricot jam if you preferred a sweeter alternative. This was indeed my favorite entree.

Maplewood Smoked Jidori Chicken was incredibly aromatic and the smokiness wafted into the air the minute the platter was placed in front of us. Served with The FARM’s version of panzanella (bread and tomato salad) using jalapeno cornbread, picholine olives, heirloom tomatoes, yellow corn and torn purple basil, it was the perfect summer meal.

My second favorite entree was Citrus Grilled Mexican White Shrimp. The shrimp are skewered on thin sugar cane slivers and when eaten with the red quinoa, cucumbers, radishes, Hass avocado and watercress salad, the complexity of textures and flavors were an explosion in my mouth, blowing me away.

If you are a fan of salmon, then Skuna Bay Salmon with heirloom beets, English peas, spring onions, Sicilian pistachios and dill yogurt is sure to please.

Meat lovers can enjoy Certified Angus Skirt Steak, rare slices of meat served atop plump chunks of eggplant and summer squash with bits of rainbow chard and sweet baby carrots.

Or, Certified Black Angus Tenderloin, a roulade stuffed with fontina, sopressata and pine nuts brushed with basil pesto using incredible grass fed meat, is seasoned perfectly and cooked to a medium rare. Moist, tender and succulent are all the words I have to describe this.

If I loved the tenderloin, I was IN love with the Miniature Lamb Chops! These mouthwatering chops are cut thick and no words were needed to describe how tasty they were. The silence surrounding our side of the table spoke volumes!

As everyone waited patiently for dessert to be served, I knew my  meal had come to an end. No matter how enticing dessert was going to be, there was no room left for even one bite. When the platter containing Peach Parfait with elderflower sabayon, Miniature Blueberry Crostatas with Meyer lemon frozen yogurt, Hand Crafted Macaron Ice Cream Sandwiches — butter popcorn and mint n chip was brought to the table, I snapped my photo and then sat back and watched the debauchery surrounding me.

I watched as those around me took a bite of the macaron and their eyes rolled back, letting out a sigh, and then immediately take another bite. I didn’t have to taste any of it to know they were a hit.

As the meal drew to an end, and guests, one by one, left the premises, I realized that the heat was a minor interference, a non-issue if you will, to this exquisite repast I’ve had the honor of being invited to. It will eternally be remembered as one of the best meals of my life.

**everything mentioned above is available on the menu, or, will be available within a few weeks of this post**

The Ranch Restaurant & Saloon
1025 E Ball Road
Anaheim, CA 92805
Tel: 714-817-4200

mucho nuevo with nuevo chef at helm

When we heard that Chef de Cuisine of Five Crowns/SideDoor, Bryon Freeze, had left and is now Executive Chef of Mucho Ultima Mexicana in Manhattan Beach, The Hungry Dogg and I immediately made the drive up to check it out.

The restaurant was on the inaugural episode of Chef Wanted, Anne Burrell’s latest show on the Food Network in which four chefs compete to win the restaurant’s executive chef position. Needless to say, we know who won, right?

The interior is lively, vibrant with an ambiance that can only be described as fiesta-style. You can’t be in a bad mood here because everything dictates a pumping good time.

Our server asked if we wanted some guacamole to start and we said “sure”. A few minutes later, she returned with a cart to make  the Ultima Guacamole tableside and according to our specs. I didn’t realize it was $11 for this bowl of guac until I looked on the menu, and frankly, it was a little steep even when served with chips. It was good, but not mind-blowingly so.

Tuna Ceviche ($14) is not your traditional ceviche swimming in juices, but rather, reminiscent of tuna tartare. Sushi tuna marinated in soy, lime, Maggi, chiles torreados, with bits of cucumber, mango, onions is super delicious especially with a few squeezes of fresh lime. The yucca chips served alongside is a great alternative to the usual tortilla chips. I grew up with Maggi sauce and it was such a weird feeling of familiarity with each mouthful.

Octopus tacos ($16) were seriously good. I loved the char on the octopus and how the flavors came together well bite after bite. The hand-made corn tortillas naturally enhanced the eating experience over store-bought generic ones most restaurants opt to use. I would totally order this again.

If you want a hearty entree, then Lamb Barbacoa ($23) is not to be missed. Adobo marinated lamb is wrapped in banana leaves and slow roasted for no less than 12 hours for that fork-tender taste.

Frijoles borrachos, or “drunken beans” lay on the bottom of the dish and through my research, I found it traditionally uses beer in its cooking process — Chef Bryon uses Tecate in his! A pasilla Oaxacan salsa accompany.

Mexican Street Corn ($5) consisted of two segments of grilled corn Mexican street-style slathered with mayo and topped with with morita chile and cotija cheese. It was sweet, salty, and absolutely delicioso! I could eat an additional portion of this it was THAT good.

We left no room for dessert and maybe that’s a good thing. It will give us an opportunity to return again and to see what else Chef Bryon has in store for Mucho. I heard a rumor that he’ll be implementing a Farm-To-Table style menu — a first in Mexican restaurants in SoCal. This is nuevo Mexicana so don’t expect to be served what you’re used to getting at your local taqueria. You’ll be disappointed.

Mucho Ultima Mexicana
903 Manhattan Avenue
Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
Tel: 310-374-4422

Omakase & happy hour at Hamamori

Generally, a restaurant inside a mall doesn’t always deliver the way I’d like them to, but when it comes to Hamamori, one must overlook its location to see and taste how delightful and innovative the menu is. Chef James Hamamori has brought together his Japanese heritage and married it with some modern day influences to produce eclectic and tasty dishes everyone will enjoy.

I’ve been here a few times, including omakase and happy hour, YES, happy hour. Between 5pm and 6.30pm. drinks and small plates are discounted, and you can relish in signature dishes such as asparagus and Asahi on tap.

Omakase is a prix fixe meal decided by the chef depending on freshness and availability. Lunch is $35 and started with tofu steak with fresh tomato and fried julienned shiso.

Sashimi salad was next with ebi, salmon, taco and scallop on top of a bed of baby greens drizzled with a ponzu vinaigrette. Refreshingly delicious and mouth-puckering tart at the same time. Just lovely!

Next came the asparagus wrapped in okaki, a crispy rice snack similar to arare. When you order it during happy hour, there are three jumbo asparagus in one order served with togarashi salt. So crunchy and delicious — addictive!

Course four was three pieces of nigiri sushi and a small mound of pickled ginger. I would’ve been happy with 10 pieces of this and nothing else.

When it came time for entrees, you had a choice of fish or beef. Everyone at the table ordered beef which was a filet mignon topped with asparagus and mushrooms including shimeiji and King oyster. Tender beef in a succulent au jus is not only satisfying but so flavorful.

Dessert was ice cream and there are a few flavors to choose from. My red bean was perfect to finish the meal off with.

If you visit for happy hour, my other suggestions include Shiitake Mushroom Frites ($6) topped with fried salsify.

Or, alternatively, Salmon Skin Rolls are only $7 during happy hour and is rather good with a beer or sake.

No matter what time of day you decide to visit, Hamamori is good for a leisurely meal or a special occasion. Don’t let the fact that it is situated inside a mall deter you from visiting.

Hamamori
3333 Bear Street
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
Tel: 714-850-0880